Sustainable fashion has long struggled to take a firm stance on leather. For decades, the material has been celebrated for its durability and longevity—qualities that align with the ethos of buying less and buying better. However, its deep ties to the meat industry, high environmental impact, and reliance on toxic chemicals have made it a highly controversial choice. A new initiative, Circumfauna, is challenging the assumption that leather is a sustainable byproduct of meat production, arguing that its environmental toll may be greater than simply discarding the hides altogether.
The case against leather: a deeper look
Circumfauna, published by the vegan advocacy group Collective Fashion Justice, seeks to provide transparent research on the role of animals in fashion. Their findings suggest that even if leather is considered a byproduct of the meat industry, turning hides into finished products generates significant carbon emissions, chemical waste, and water consumption. According to their calculations, a single leather handbag requires as much water as a person would need to drink over 23 years. A leather jacket produces 176 kg of carbon-equivalent greenhouse gas emissions.
Surprisingly, their research suggests that allowing hides to decompose in landfills—despite the methane emissions produced—would have a lower environmental impact than processing them into leather. While methane is a potent greenhouse gas, the tanning and finishing process for leather contributes to a broader set of environmental issues, including pollution and energy-intensive processing.
The growing consumer demand for alternatives to leather is undeniable. Searches for "vegan leather" have increased by 69% year-over-year, while searches for traditional leather have declined. The shift is happening, but education remains a key factor. Many people are unaware that their "vegan leather" handbag may be made from synthetic plastics or that sustainable, plant-based alternatives exist. This is where brands like Briiskie Bobbins can make a difference—by offering a transparent, science-backed approach to material choices.
Moving forward: what can consumers do?
For those looking to make more sustainable fashion choices, here are a few key takeaways:
Look beyond the label. "Vegan leather" doesn’t always mean sustainable—check whether it's plant-based or petroleum-derived.
Support brands that prioritize sustainable materials. Fashion brands that invest in research and development of eco-friendly materials help push the industry forward.
Educate yourself and others. The debate around leather is complex, but staying informed about its true impact can lead to better purchasing decisions.
As the fashion industry reckons with its environmental impact, it’s clear that leather is not the straightforward, "natural" material it was once thought to be. By embracing plant-based innovation, we can move towards a truly sustainable future—one that doesn’t rely on outdated systems but instead reimagines what fashion can be.
What are your thoughts on the leather debate? Let’s discuss in the comments!
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